About a week ago, John Galliano did an interview at the British Vogue Festival where he talked about his first two collections for Maison Margiela (S/S15 ‘Artisanal’ and A/W15 RTW). What interested me most about what he talked about was the way the Haute Couture or ‘Artisanal’ collection influenced and informed what he did for the following ready to wear show. The example he used, that also inspired me the most and was possibly my favourite part of the talk, was when he showed that the last look from his first Artisanal collection was actually a men’s tailored jacket, where the lining had been taken out and draped to create the dress.
Phoebe English, a London based designer who graduated from the prestigious art school Central St Martin’s in 2011, presented for the first time on the official London Fashion Week schedule this season (A/W15). Out of the four collections she has shown, off schedule, this season was definitely her strongest, incorporating many of her signature staples.
What I enjoy most about English’s work, and especially her latest collection is how unashamedly her it is. In a very short time she has been able to show what she’s about as a designer, and all of her collection seem to be developing from a similar theme, very much pushing back against the idea of fast fashion of doing something else each season. She is really taking her time to gradually evolve and properly develop an idea.