Although this Chanel Haute Couture collection seemed to be so much about a ‘Lacroixian’ flounce, it was also about tailoring and more specifically the shoulders. Each painstakingly worked and embroidered tweed suit, a Chanel staple, seemed to have a different shoulder shape, a feature that was carried on into much of the ‘flou’ or dress making as well.
This was a collection about travellers. Mrs Prada herself described this season’s Prada women as “vagabonds”. They treasured their clothes as protection and as luxury. Heavy tweeds and sturdy denim formed the basis of timeless, protective coats trimmed with rustic furs – a Prada favourite. However this was not the usual technicolour-pop Prada fur. It was sombre and seemed to have a certain austerity about it. An austerity that ran through the many sailor pea-coats that so defined this collection.