Probably one of my favourite Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton shows (perhaps even one of my favourites ever) was Spring Summer 2014. Which also happened to be his last at the house, before Nicolas Ghesquière took over having previously been head designer at Balenciaga.
The collection was shown amongst the sets from all the previous shows Marc Jacobs has done at the house, however all drenched in black. For example, the escalator was from Spring 2013, the hotel gallery Fall 2013. The lifts were from the Fall 2011 fetish collection and the Marry Go Round from the following Spring collection. Even the clock from his iconic steam train collection bad an appearance.
For me, this seemed to symbolise the ghosts or shadows of previous collections walking around the land of Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs had created, one last time before a new Vuitton era was ushered in. Much like in Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2009 show, the Horn of Plenty, McQueen showed the collection against a massive pile of rubble, which was representative of previous sets he had shown before changing everything up with Plato’s Atlantis (Spring 2010) which, even though a new designer wasn’t being brought in, seemed to be about a new era for McQueen.
However, although the set was amazing, the clothes (aren’t they what it’s all about) were also great! With stately, towering, Cher inspired head pieces created by Stephen Jones, Stephen Sprouse – Louis Vuitton embroidered tights and beautifully jet black beaded jacks, it was probably one of Marc’s strongest collections for Vuitton. I especially liked the juxtapositioning of intricately embroidered coats with simple jeans.
In the end though I may be looking into this too deeply. Marc Jacobs himself said in the show notes that it was about connecting with things on a superficial level and about the ‘showgirl in all of us’, which I think is a very beautiful way to end his 16 years at the house.
Watch the full show on YouTube here (highly recommended, it’s great!)