The most important thing to be said about Pre-Collections, like Cruise which is being shown by various large fashion brands now, is that it makes up most of the houses’ fashion income. I’m not sure of the exact figures, but I’ve heard numbers as large as 70% being thrown about.
Thus it is no surprise that some of the largest brands have begun treating Cruise collections as its own thing, in many cases dragging the fashion press as far afield as Seoul in South Korea and Palm Spring in California to see their collections.
Chanel kicked everything off, showing their Pre-Spring (or Cruise/ Resort) collection in Seoul, South Korea. From the first look, it was evident that this was to also be the inspiration of Karl Lagerfeld’s cruise offering. However, as ever it wasn’t just South Korea, but South Korea as seen through Chanel tinted glass. To such an extent that it was hard to tell whether it was Chanel looking at South Korea or South Koreans looking at Chanel. What I really loved about this collection, were the very strong, bold, graphic prints, which permeated the whole of the collection. I also really liked the K-Pop influenced and the way some Korean girls dress, in a very prim almost super sweet girly manner. This was very much seen in some of there shoes which were made to look as though they worn with white socks underneath in a very Catholic school girl type of way.
Next, came Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection for Louis Vuitton, shown in Palm Spring California. Previously, I didn’t really ‘get’ what he has been doing at the house sofar, but this was the first collection which I actually really enjoyed! My favourite looks were the opening double belted looks, which I thought were great. The flowing skirts and beautiful prints also seemed really summery and modern. What I also really loved were the zipped jackets. The shoes, which seemed to almost contradict and juxtapose the looseness and flowing ness of the skirts and dresses were really big and clunky, but still really amazing!
Last in my little round up of Cruise collections, but certainly not least was Raf Simons for Dior. This, was my favourite out of all the Pre-Spring shows. When I was first going through the looks on Style.com, I was really confused and thought it was even perhaps a bit ugly. However as it progressed it just kept getting better. It started off with some gingham type tops and skirts which slowly progressed in metallic dressed and then into some really beautiful print dresses. There was even a jacket and trouser combo (look 44) which seemed to be very much inspired by Mr Dior’s 1947 ‘new look’, the infamous skirt and bar jacket, which makes me think Simons may have been looking at the house’s archive to inspire this collection. While making notes on the collection to write up the review, I had written in capital letters ‘SHOES’. Yes, the shoes were amazing! They were pointed, mostly in black but also in other colours and prints, with straps running down the sides. The almost medieval style shoes, also make me think that Simons may have been looking further afield than the archives at Dior for inspiration for this collection.
What I enjoyed most about all these collections, was that they did’t seem to be watered down version of main season collections, but were very much their own thing.
All photos nicked from style.com