About a week ago, John Galliano did an interview at the British Vogue Festival where he talked about his first two collections for Maison Margiela (S/S15 ‘Artisanal’ and A/W15 RTW). What interested me most about what he talked about was the way the Haute Couture or ‘Artisanal’ collection influenced and informed what he did for the following ready to wear show. The example he used, that also inspired me the most and was possibly my favourite part of the talk, was when he showed that the last look from his first Artisanal collection was actually a men’s tailored jacket, where the lining had been taken out and draped to create the dress.
Inspired by a piece Martin Margiela originally did, this influence was very clearly seen again in the ready to wear, where many dresses could be seen with jackets hanging off the back and the label at the back. The dress was the lining.
It amazed me how simple, yet incredible this was! Especially as I had seen many comments criticising both his collections for Margiela as being too John, not enough Martin. Superficially, this could very well be true. However that is never what the house of Margiela has been about. It has always been about the concept, and this is clearly what Galliano has been trying to tap into. However, on top of this he also clearly said in the Vogue Festival interview that he didn’t want to become a slave to the ‘codes’ of the house, as had happened at Dior and incredibly even at his own fashion house.
Many people, including myself, have very high expectations for what is to come next from Galliano at Margiela. Obviously new collections, his next and third collection for the house is the A/W15 haute couture collection, scheduled to be shown during Haute Couture week in Paris this July, but also advertising Campaigns, and perhaps even a new perfume?
The possibilities are endless, and judging by Galliano’s previous work at Dior, I am sure he will not disappoint!