A commercial collection to solidify Burberry’s move to ‘see-now; buy-now’, an innovation in the way fashion is shown and more importantly sold, allowing the customer to purchase straight off the runway. The idea is to cut out the six month waiting time, so that the collection does not seem old by the time it hits stores. This is what Burberry does. It is a commercial innovator, previously making pre-orders immediately available. Now however, their entire showing schedule has been rethought around this selling strategy.
Although this Chanel Haute Couture collection seemed to be so much about a ‘Lacroixian’ flounce, it was also about tailoring and more specifically the shoulders. Each painstakingly worked and embroidered tweed suit, a Chanel staple, seemed to have a different shoulder shape, a feature that was carried on into much of the ‘flou’ or dress making as well.
This was a collection about travellers. Mrs Prada herself described this season’s Prada women as “vagabonds”. They treasured their clothes as protection and as luxury. Heavy tweeds and sturdy denim formed the basis of timeless, protective coats trimmed with rustic furs – a Prada favourite. However this was not the usual technicolour-pop Prada fur. It was sombre and seemed to have a certain austerity about it. An austerity that ran through the many sailor pea-coats that so defined this collection.
Just this week, the news of Hedi Slimane’s departure from the house Saint Laurent was announced. The news did not come as much of a surprise as rumours of his departure were being heard since January. However, it did make the many changes of creative directorship at major houses more apparent, starting with Raf Simons’ departure from Dior in October, followed by the announcement of Alber Elbaz’s unceremonious firing from Lanvin, where he had been designing for 14 years.
To start off with, Gucci Cruise. The first thing to say about the show, new creative director Alessandro Michele’s third Gucci collection held on Thursday in New York, was that I really liked it! Everything just looked so warm and delicious, in short I wanted it all. I also really liked the menswear, which in some cases I felt was stronger than the womenswear. A slight criticism however was that it did look perhaps too similar to Autumn/Winter womenswear show. Especially when you have what seem to be the same models with the same styling and accessories in virtually the same looks.